Juan de Fuca Marine Trail - September 2006


    For most of the year Kathy and Mike had been itching to do a big trip of some sort at the tail end of summer, this turned out to be a 47 kilometer backpacking trip on the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, on the west coast of Vancouver Island!  We stayed with Kathy's brother and his girlfriend in Vancouver, and our plan was to stay one night (car camping) at China Beach Provincial Park, leaving the next morning on the trailhead just a kilometer down the road.  What follows is our adventure, in as much detail as we can remember, with the better lot of our pictures!

  One thing that I was looking for when researching the trip was the finer points, i.e.: what sort of parking will there be at the trailhead, should we expect toilet paper in outhouses, will there be outhouses?  How about bear caches, should we hang our food, etc.  So hopefully this guide will help those who may have the same burning questions! 

  To view all of the pictures from the trip by themselves, click here


Update: A triplog from Mike and Kathy's 2009 Juan de Fuca Trail adventure is now available by clicking here!


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Day 1 - Vancouver to China Beach Provincial Park

September 7/06 (Thursday)

   After raisin bran at Dirk's house in Vancouver, we said goodbye to Rheana, Dirk had left for work already. We found the ferry thanks to Mapquest, though I was fairly certain we'd get lost somewhere between New Westminster and the terminal so that was a pleasant surprise to arrive in Tsawwassen and almost immediately get loaded onto the ferry to Schwartz Bay. Going between Galliano (?) Island and another island to get to Victoria is beautiful. We saw seals or otters or something and even shared a Legendary burger on board (thank you, Whitespot).

Our reflection in the ferry window            Our ferry's sister ship: Spirit of Vancouver Island             A fishing boat between the islands


  Getting from Schwartz Bay to Sooke however was a lesson in trail and error. My directions (again, from Mapquest) had shown us the shortest possible route basically, and this threw in a bunch of turns onto side streets off of the main highway that I either neglected to write down, or missed entirely. Long story short, instead of just staying on the highway all the way through, we turned off somewhere, wound up in Esquimalt and when we decided "yeah, we're going totally the wrong way", the place we actually turned around in wound up being the entrance to the Esquimalt naval base...complete with a guard armed with a very large automatic rifle. Thankfully they could see we were lost tourists and allowed us to turn around without incident. :-)
Self timer shot of us upon reaching China Beach
Kathy's footprints in the sand at China Beach  We arrived at China Beach at 3pm and promptly walked down to the beach, which was glorious. A sort of homecoming for Kathy. We spent two hours exploring the waters edge, the waves were awesome! Setting up the tent was painful though as the ground had maybe an inch of loose dirt on top, below which was what we could only guess to be cement or incredibly compact earth. Staking out the tent was simply not going to happen, though we managed to sink a few pegs without bending them too much. We used heavy stones to hold the rest of the tent in place. FYI for staying here, bring a hammer and some good pegs, or prepare to stake it like we did with rocks!


 

  This water is COLD!          Rocks feeling the force of the waves          The top end of China Beach          Looking down the beach


  Our plan from the beginning was to setup at our site here, then nip into Jordan River quickly and experience some of their small town charm, and get some grub from a local restaurant of some sort. When we had driven through on our way in there was a small restaurant open, however that was all we could see, short of a corner store that was really nothing more than a shed. But hey, no worries, there was that one restaurant...yeah, no, it closed before we got there at 6pm. Go figure! Thankfully the owner was out front, so I asked if there was anywhere else to get some food. She said short of driving back to Sooke (30km south), we'd be out of luck unless the "take out place two doors down is still open". Rushing 2 doors down, sure enough there it was, built onto the side of a house. So we settled on BLT sandwiches and fries, served by a lady with black fingernails. The sandwiches were good though, and a cat kept us company in hopes of a table scrap.

  Back to the campsite by 6:30 or so, it was starting to get dim and the air was getting chilly indeed. We had expected cooler temperatures than Kelowna for sure, but this was getting actually cold, we could see our breath! In our rush to move, pack and get out of town we had forgotten our "big plan" of bringing one full set of really cold weather clothing and one set of moderately cool weather clothing. We were going to make the choice on what to pack for the trail at the trailhead...however all we had brought was our moderately cool gear. So we put everything on that we could and planned on going to bed once the parks person had come by to pickup our fee for the night.

  Naturally this took forever...we had seen him driving around before we left to get our food, but he took too long and we were hungry, so left before he got to our site. He didn't return until around 8, by which time we were freezing and had decided to just forget paying him for the night, we'd go to bed and square up in the morning somehow. Sure enough our last trip to the bathroom, there he was. "I just need to go check on the overnight parking area, I'll come by your site in about 30 minutes to brief you on the trail and take payment for tonight". Sigh...another 30 minute wait, that ended up turning into 45 minutes...forget it, we sat in the car where it was warmer.

  It was strange, after talking to small-town folk and having them respond to me as a "big city tourist", being unable to stake our tent out and now huddling for warmth in the car, I felt like we were representing our true selves very poorly so far. We've been through hardships while camping, freezing temperatures, unexpected snow storms, leaky tents...I swear it, we are tough!

  Tim, the parks guy, finally shows up and we chat a bit about the trail ahead, he isn't sure we know what we're doing and asks if we actually want to hike the Juan de Fuca trail, or if we meant to hike the West Coast Trail. We assure him we're in the right place, we've read a lot of trip reports, it's all good. Says there was a nuisance bear somewhere on the trail but that it was removed and we should have no wildlife problems. I had asked all my burning questions regarding the safety of our vehicle, he assured us that part of his job is to monitor the overnight parking area. Relieved, we hopped into the tent, wrote our diary entry for the day and went to sleep a little after 9pm. The account for today may sound a bit depressing, but we are in good spirits, we start our hike tomorrow and the weather is looking great!


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